One of the most romantic cities of the
world, Venice, is a city composed of 118 islets interconnected by bridges. The
population of Venice city itself is only 60,000 but another 170,000 on the
mainland also consider themselves Venitians. The city has been known to be a
source of refuge from the power of Rome. And, perhaps, it is true even now, for
we do not see beggars in great numbers. Probably, the city is still insulated
from the despair of Italy, protected by its tourists.
And these tourists flock to Venice in ever greater
numbers: "Maybe there are more tourists, says a waitress, but they
certainly don't seem to be spending money. There are more and more Chinese and
Indians". In this she echoes tourism statistics which show that Chinese
tourists to Europe have increased by 25% and Indian tourists by 15%. Even if
France with its 85 million tourists leads the world, followed by the USA (70
million) and Spain (60 million), Italy cannot be far behind. Venice alone has 3
million tourists a year. "Although we can see that many of the Chinese
tourists do have purchasing power, the Indians are low-cost tourists, very
careful on what they spend their money", says a salesman from a souvenir
shop.
Nevertheless, at an average of a little
less than one week per tourist, this comes to about 18 million tourist nights,
which corresponds to statistics that indicate that there is an average of
50,000 tourists per day. There is a tax of 4 Euros per night. This means that
the local taxes are already about 72 million Euros. Since most establishments
insist that local taxes be paid in cash, we can assume that a corresponding
amount is escaping tax! In fact, a lot of restaurants and shops in Italy accept
only cash, indicating that the parallel economy is strong.
Of course, Venice is the hometown not only
of Murano glassware, of which there is plenty, but also of Antonio Vivaldi.
Fortunate to discover that a concert of the Four Seasons was scheduled for the
evening, we found tickets easily available. At 36 Euros and 26 Euros, evidently
Vivaldi is too expensive for the middle class tourists. And the 26 Euros
section was full while the 36 Euros section was half empty. Why, asked my son,
don't they just make a smaller section for rich people? Because, it takes years
of observation to accept that the people no longer have to power to pay. The
rich patrons are much fewer.
Not that there aren't people who can afford
drinks and dinner at restaurants where an expresso costs 10 Euros, on the Piazza
San Marco, where musicians play instrumental music from Evita or My Fair Lady,
among others. But lots of chocolate for a few rich to eat, while the middle
classes stand around to overhear the music and provide applause for the
musicians and admiration for the rich who may sit down at the restaurant. A
sign is put up saying that sitting on the ground in public places is illegal.
So, the middle classes must stand and wait. It is also illegal to sit and eat
in public places. But don't cry for me, Argentina, because the place is so
beautiful that we are willing to pay. Its just that we'll spend three nights
instead of a week.
These laws are probably outdated, as is the
premium strategy being adopted by the restaurants. Market Research may show
that an outer-ring of cheap seats with reasonably priced café or ice-cream, may
attract business from the middle class tourists. So, instead of serving by
standing and waiting, they could contribute financially by sitting and paying.
There is nothing new in this suggestion: the high priests of the next-door San
Marco church have long realized this. Tourists form a long queue to see the beautiful
church, but to see special sections inside, one has to pay 2 Euros here, 3
Euros there, 5 Euros to go up, and so on. Thus, they are able to tap the
consumer surplus of the middle classes to the extent possible.
There are other outlets for
paying. Money flows out constantly. The rents, the pizzas, the transport are
all far more expensive that Ravenna or Verona, both within a couple of hours
drive. Even the cooperative store is 20% more expensive than on the mainland
because goods have to be carried physically and manually form the port to the
shop. And manpower costs. The best Pizzas are certainly not in Venice, at least
not in the middle class price range.
What about the middle-classes serving the
tourists? They come from the mainland, taking an average of an hour to reach
work, because they cannot afford the rents on the island(s). In any case, many
of the homes are now owned by foreigners, further limiting supply. The local
population of the historical city was 120,000 in 1980 and only 60,000 today.
The others had to move out. There are about 20,000 students at the Ca’ Foscari
University of Venice who also live on the island. Most of the houses are
residences for the tourists, explains a Gondolier.
About 400 Gondoliers are plying their Gondolas
on the canals. The license is controlled by a guild, to avoid overcrowding but
also to permit a minimum of profitability. After all, each Gondola is hand-made
and costs about 35,000 Euros, as much as a beautiful taxi.
What seems to be perfectly legal is the army
of South Asian salesmen selling roses and toys on all the prestigious tourist
sites. These toys are no different from the ones that can be bought in India Gate
in New Delhi. So, if they are selling, surely there must be middle class
tourists coming from countries other than India. "Yes, thank God for the
Germans… they at least come and drink beer".
The workers have to carry goods across
bridges and have to wade through the tourists who create bottlenecks. There are
signs requesting the tourist not to stand on the bridges because people have to
get to work. Tough…. Too much of a good thing?